Land of the Mother Sultans: Üsküdar

Üsküdar, although not officially a part of the city in the past, is one of Istanbul’s oldest and historically significant districts. It is a land of sultans, mystics, and poets, marked by its rich Ottoman heritage and deep-rooted spiritual significance. Home to some of the most iconic mosques, palaces, and scenic spots along the Bosphorus, Üsküdar offers visitors a unique blend of history, architecture, and tranquility.

Today, Üsküdar is known as a rather conservative district, however with the changing population, its demographics become more complicated. Although won by the social-democrat opposition (CHP) in the latest elections, Üsküdar is still a calmer and more modest place compared to its ultra-Westernized modern neighbor Kadıköy. Now, let’s dive into a bit of history to understand its position in the past.

Historical Meaning of Üsküdar 

1. Pilgrimage Start Point to Mecca

For centuries, Üsküdar served as the starting point for Ottoman pilgrims embarking on the Hajj journey to Mecca. Pilgrims from the capital would gather here before setting out on the sacred route, making this district a deeply spiritual and historically significant location.

2. Gate of Istanbul to Anatolia

Üsküdar has long been the key connection between Istanbul and the vast lands of Anatolia. In Ottoman times, it was the first stop for travelers coming from Anatolia into the imperial capital. Even today, its ferry docks and transportation hubs make it a vital passage between the two continents.

3. Base of Florence Nightingale during the Crimean War

The Selimiye Barracks in Üsküdar gained worldwide recognition during the Crimean War (1853-1856) when the British nurse Florence Nightingale revolutionized battlefield medicine here. The site remains an important historical landmark, symbolizing the evolution of modern nursing.

Must-See Places

1. Mihrimah Sultan (İskele) Mosque

Commissioned by Mihrimah Sultan, the beloved daughter of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, this mosque is a masterpiece of the renowned architect Sinan. Located near the ferry terminal, it greets visitors arriving from the European side with its elegant silhouette. A legend says that the architect Sinan was in love with Mihrimah but not able to show his love since she was the daughter of the sultan, so he built this mosque in such a way that it reflects Mihrimah’s silhouette.

2. Maiden’s Tower

Perhaps Üsküdar’s most famous landmark, the Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) sits on a small islet in the Bosphorus. Wrapped in legends and mysteries, the tower has served various functions throughout history, from a lighthouse to a customs station, from a defense castle to a quarantine room. Today, it stands as a romantic symbol of the city, offering spectacular panoramic views.

3. Atik Valide Mosque

Built by Nurbanu Sultan, the Venetian-born mother of Sultan Murad III, the Atik Valide (meaning Old Mother Sultan) Mosque complex is a stunning example of Ottoman architecture. The mosque, madrasa, hammam and caravanserai (an inn to stay for travelers in the past) make up one of the most important külliye (religious complexes) in the city.

4. Şemsi Ahmed Pasha Mosque

A small but exquisite waterfront mosque designed by Mimar Sinan, Şemsi Ahmed Pasha Mosque enjoys one of the most picturesque settings in Istanbul. The serene atmosphere and proximity to the Bosphorus make it an ideal place for contemplation. Its L-shaped madrasa (school in the Ottoman Empire) continues to function as a library today.

The mosque is also known as “Kuşkonmaz” Mosque, meaning the birds are not able to land on the mosque due to the opposite wind movements.

5. Çinili Mosque & Hammam

Commissioned by Mahpeyker Kösem Sultan, one of the most powerful women in Ottoman history, the Çinili Mosque is famous for its vibrant Iznik tiles. Next to it, the Çinili Hammam continues to offer a traditional Turkish bath experience in an authentic historical setting.

Greater Üsküdar

Üsküdar is not only the name of a small district but also a bigger province which includes many other neighborhoods. We picked some of the most important ones for you to explore. 

1. Kuzguncuk: An Old Neighborhood of Religious Coexistence

Kuzguncuk is a charming neighborhood that has long been home to a diverse community of Muslims, Jews, and Christians. Its historic synagogues, churches, and mosques, along with colorful wooden houses and boutique cafés, make it a perfect place to experience the nostalgic spirit of old Istanbul.

2. Beylerbeyi: 19th Century Ottoman Palace & Best View of the Bosphorus

Beylerbeyi Palace, a stunning 19th-century summer residence for Ottoman sultans, is a must-visit. It boasts magnificent interiors and breathtaking views, making it one of Istanbul’s finest hidden gems.

3. Çengelköy: An Exemplary Istanbul Village with Its Plane Tree and Famous for Cucumber

Known for its historical waterfront mansions (yalı in Turkish) and century-old plane tree, Çengelköy retains the charm of a traditional Istanbul village. It is also renowned for its cucumbers, which were once a staple in Ottoman-era gardens.

4. Çamlıca Hills: A Recreational Spot for Old Istanbulites

Offering panoramic views of the entire city, Çamlıca Hills have been a beloved retreat for centuries. While traditionally known for tea gardens and picnics, the area is now home to the grand Çamlıca Mosque, a modern interpretation of classical Ottoman architecture, reminiscent of the iconic Blue Mosque.

Üsküdar, with its historical depth and scenic beauty, remains one of Istanbul’s most captivating districts. Whether exploring its rich Ottoman heritage or enjoying the Bosphorus breeze, every corner of Üsküdar tells a story of sultans, saints, and civilizations past.